dash almost sorted

almost got my re made dash sorted now after buying a race technology dash 2 system instead of the s2000 clocks which were provind difficult to wire.i have got my DTA S60 PRO ecu installed and the car startds and runs sweetly. i opted for a stack analogue oil pressure guage and an aem digital AFR guage and controller, as well as the required savage switches needed for IVA

battery,header tank and fuse box final fitment

got the scuttle pannel correctly fitted and positioned, bolted the battery down to avoid it moving whilst braking or cornering, fixed the fuse box to scuttle pannel with m6 bolts and some nylon spacers to space it off from the scuttle pannel and washers and nylocs on the inside. i have also mounted the header tank to the pannel with m6 bolts and nylocs but first i put some sticky foam on theback of the mounting brackets to avoid scratching the gel coat

rear stone guards,fuel filler and fuel rollover valve done

another small job was to fit the carbonmods rear stone chip guards. these are a sticky back item which just required positioning correctly and sticking on.a fairly straight forward job compared to most..
i have also fitted an expensive red adonised fuel roll over valve from merlin motorsport to let the tank breath,but also to stop fuel from leaking in the event of a roll.
alloy fuel filler cap has also been fit to rear tub and filler hose connected to cap and tank! things are movin on slowly

carbon bootlid done

i have bought and fit a carbonmods boot pannel.i first marked out the roll cage bars and cut and permanently fixed the 2 x outer sides of the lid.i then cut a center section and drilled it in several places to enable me to put riv-nuts in the rear tub fix the carbon lid to it with m6 bolts. the final part was to bond a section of radiused edge trim to the front edge,as to make sure i dont fall foul of any radius testing during the iva test. the removeable pannel enables me to possibly fit a storage tray above the fuel tank at a later date.

iva wing mirrors fitted to cage. speed sensor mounted

i have bought some suzuki e-marked wing mirrors for the mnr. i measured them up from the drivers seat,marked positions with masking tape and drilled and tapped the cage with a 6mm tap and bolted the mirrors on.i also put some tigerseal between the mirror mounting brackets and the cage for extra grip and to stop the 2 metals rubbing together.
i also have mounted the race technology speed sensor to the mounting bracket at the front of the propshaft.all the wiring is protected by spiral conduit. i have used 1 x longer bolt on the prop so it only picks up 1 pulse per prop rotation!

Fan temp switch,cooling hoses and car electrics complete

I have also recently bought a 32mm hose joiner with a pre welded boss in the top for the temp switch. I have fit this in to the top radiator hose and wired it according to the instructions. A quick check around of the coolant hoses was carried out,and clamps tightened where necessary.
One of the main jobs of the build was trying to incorporate the s2000 electrical components I to the build as well as the race technology dash and dta s60 pro ecu. So I took the car to Jdm Dyno to have the ecu fitted and wired in to the engine loom and decided to do my own loom for the car electrics,-and dash. I using the Honda steering wheel and switch gear for all indicators and lighting, but the lighting stalk switches the earth through a relay to avoid arching with a 12v circuit. I made up my own loom from 7 core trailer flex and ran one from the dash to the rear and 2 from the dash to the front and worked my way through each item one at a time before checking it worked and to my amazement every single item worked as it should first time.

Tunnel electrics fitted. Propshaft fitted and wheel speed sensor fitted

I think I am completely finished in the transmission tunnel area now. I have enclosed all the elecrtris in spiral conduit and p-clipped and riveted it at close intervals for a tidy and secure job. The fuel pipes also clipped with rubber edged p-clips to avoid any chafing.
The propshaft was then bolted in position and the wheel speed sensor fit in a position to catch 1 of the 6 bolt heads on the prop as they spin!

carbon tunnel cover complete.

i have been spending a bit of time trying to make a carbon fibre tunnel cover and have got it done now.

i first bought a 1.2mm alloy sheet,did some drawings,some measuring and some more drawings, unitil i had the measurements i was happy with. i then drew lines on the inside with a marker pen where i wanted to fold the sheet. i then folded the alloy to give it a flat top as i dont like the rounded tunnel tops. i then measured the position of the gearstick and handbrake and began to cut the holes. once this was done i trial fitted it,and once happy i measured up for my carbon and a friend of mine made the c/f to my dimensions. i then stuck the carbon to the alloy with tigerseal and again cut out for the gearstick and handbrake. i then fit my chrome surrounds around the handbrake and gearstick and the end result is nice. i will finish the top edges with a radiused angle.

here is a few pics before and after the chrome surrounds!

purchased a trailer

i also found a cracking trailer for sale,close by so i went to view it and ended up buying it. the mnr fits on perfectly which is a bonus and it tows really well

more progress. oil line replacement

am making good progress at the moment although i have had to make a few alterations. 1st i decided on changing the oil lines from the blue aeroquip ones which i had trouble fitting to the hose joiners to some hel performance stainless braided ones with black adonised fittings.

brake fluid resevoir and lambda sensor fitting,

i mounted the brake resevoir to the alloy bracket supplied by mnr with a large cable tie and riv nutted the alloy bracket to the footwell pannel.i then drilled a 20mm hole in the side pannel and fitted a 20mm grommet in the hole and fed the lambda sensor and wiring through the hole in a spiral flexible conduit and fed the lambda wiring and the brake fluid level wiring in the same conduit and p-clipped it along the scuttle pannel!

seats and harness mounting!

i have mounted the seats to the bases with 8 m6 bolts and mounted the seats to through bottom chassis mounts with 4 x 10mm bolts in each seat! secured in place by 10mm nyloc nuts and washers on the underside of the car, the seats needed mounting at the correct height so that the upper harness mounts are the same height as the holes in the rear of the seat!

the 4 point harnesses then just clipped on to the eye bolts, and the end result is looking good! the seats are a second hand westfield race seat which have a few tears in the side bolsters but i will re trim after IVA.

the lower harness mounts were also eye bolts,but they were bolted through the mounting brackets pre welded to chassis inbto the load spreading harness mounting plates on the underside of the brackets.these give a very strong fixing in the event of a crash

IVA side marker indicators and rear fog light fitment

I have squared up the rear fog light with an L-shaped alloy bracket and for IVA purposes, i have made a surround,again from alloy and covered with edge trim.

i have also fit the IVA friendly side markers to the outer edge of the front arch, these are a recessed flush fit and require a 20mm hole, i drilled them into the arch first,then drilled a 10mm hole into the bottom of the wingstay bracket and fed the wiring through the inside of the bracket insde a flexible wiring conduit. i then fixed some cable tie bases to the lower wishbone and cable tied the wiring and conduit to the lower wishbone!

bonnet catch fitment

i have also drilled and fixed the IVA friendly rubber bonnet catches, according to the guidelines which came with the kit. i used large headed 5mm rivets and they are a superb fit!

nose cone fitment!

i have finally got round to fitting the nose cone and bonnet in there final positions, i have drilled into the top chassis rail on each side of nose cone and inserted riv-nuts to fix the nose cone down. i then made 2 L-shaped brackets mounted on the under side of the steering rack mounts. i bolted an alloy strip along the back edge of the underside of the nose cone and bolted through the brackets to hold down the bottom. it has worked really well and there is no movement in the nose once top and bottom are fixed!

NACA nose cone duct

the next job was to try to fit the NACA duct to feed cold air to the intake. this is going to be very tricky as the pannel is curved and the duct is not. so imade a template, masked the pannel, drew around the template and again cut the hole, sanded and polished leaving a nice edge. i will bond the duct in place with a decent adhesive, and will need to slightly fill the gaps where the duct doesnt quite touch the nose! the duct also needs a few coats of clear laquer to give it a shine as its a second hand item which has faded slightly!